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Excavating an Ancient Egyptian Site

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The team begins excavating and notetaking at a new part of the site.
During Winter Break 2006–2007 five University of Illinois undergraduates—Becky Chan, Melissa Curfman, Emily Henkels, Elena Madaj, and Kyle Mullen—attended an archaeological field school at Hierakonpolis, Egypt. Hierakonpolis is adjacent to the village of Kom el Ahmar (“Red Mound,” after a great mound of debris more than 5,000 years old), about midway between Aswan and Luxor in Upper Egypt. The ancient Egyptians themselves associated the site with their own past and the origins of the institutions of kingship. Dr Jeremy Geller, Director, Student International Academic Affairs, who led
the field research, had previously done doctoral work at Hierakonpolis, and obtained funding from the American Research Center in Egypt to resume research on the world’s oldest known breweries at the site. For further information and more of the students’ observations about their experiences on a dig, see Interactive Dig Hierakonpolis.

Kyle Mullen
No readings or coursework could really prepare me for what I experienced while I studied abroad last Winter Break in Egypt. During the fall, my fellow students and I learned about Islam, the history of the country both ancient and modern, and even got the opportunity to taste some Egyptian cuisine before we departed for Cairo. But it was not until we actually arrived at Hierakonpolis in Upper Egypt that I really learned something that will stick with me for the rest of my life. I experienced firsthand the importance and emphasis that Muslims place on being hospitable to all people when our entire entourage of eight was invited to dinner on two separate occasions. Working close to the villagers’ homes, it was not uncommon for someone to bring our group tea at mid-morning. Anyone who has ever traveled to Egypt would, I think, agree with me that Egyptians have a terrific sense of humor as well. Hospitality and humor go far toward putting to rest stereotypes with which we grew up.

During our excavation of an apparent pre-dynastic brewery, we had the tremendous opportunity to work with specialists from a variety of fields in archaeology. Both Dr. Jeremy Geller of the University of Illinois and Renée Friedman of The British Museum have excavated at Hierakonpolis over the past three decades and led our excavation of the brewery site. Ceramicist Jane Smyth introduced us to pottery sherd drawing and we were given ample time to practice under her close watch. Botanist Dr. Ahmed Fahmy taught us to identify emmer wheat, barley, and some other co-occurring weeds and food plants, and taught us what botanical remains can tell us about an archaeological site and the people who left it behind. As I continue my training in archaeology, I will build on all the valuable knowledge I collected in Egypt.

Melissa Curfman
The Winter Break program at Hierakonpolis, Egypt added rural experience to my experience of a semester in Cairo in spring 2006. In my mind’s eye I see children playing on a village road, people arguing about the price of tomatoes, and so much more. Given the different cadence of village life, we had opportunities for unique interactions unavailable to me in Cairo. We made our own milk bowls at the local potter’s workshop, talked with our local workers, played with the children, and were treated to meals in homes. This led me to a closer bond than ever with Egypt.

The cultural experience was only the beginning; we undertook archaeological excavation as well. At first, we painstakingly scraped away the excavation site with our own hands (and trowels) while taking notes, drawing maps and plans, and noting changes in the site. Then, skilled local workers took over, and taught us some techniques along the way, while we focused our attention on recording and learning how to interpret the site and excavated materials. The most time-consuming (and, perhaps, interesting) process of archaeology is the post-dig analysis of findings and field notes: evidence is destroyed as the dig proceeds, so recording is really crucial. Other experts who joined the expedition were involved in stabilizing the ancient mud-brick “fort” of King Khasekhemui, and we learned about that work and how the rising water table and industrialization threaten preservation of monuments.

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Students undertaking surface clearance with brush and trowel.
Becky Chan
The mere mention of Egypt conjures for many people various assumptions and stereotypes: a land frozen in time with Egyptians mounted on camels amongst a backdrop of pyramids; or, on the other hand, a country marked by the subjugation of women and the tyranny of extremism. As an anthropology and political science major, I certainly did not
expect either of these extremes. However, the culturally and historically rich world I met while in Egypt was more fantastic than I could have possibly imagined, forever changing my global, professional, and academic outlook.

My experience of Egypt is best exemplified by our interactions with our Egyptian neighbors. In one of our first ventures into Kom Al Ahmar, I, along with my female colleagues from the university, were invited to meet the women of the harem of one of the leading families of the village. My time with these women defied all previous notions I had of a woman’s role in a conservative Muslim community. The women in the harem were secluded from their male counterparts and were responsible for domestic chores such as preparing food and making bread, a role that makes some Westerners bristle. However, I was greatly impressed with the sense of community and close relationships the women in the harem had with each other. I also learned that all of the women of my generation had formal schooling and were very well educated and informed. This experience taught me not to accept stereotypical labels, but always to explore and seek understanding before making judgments about lifestyles different from my own.
In addition to the many ways in which our project in Egypt has profoundly shaped my personal identity as well as my global outlook, it has also affected my plans for future academic endeavors. I plan to learn Arabic and continue working in Egypt or the Middle East, hopefully pursuing a career in archaeology or cultural heritage management.

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Students and colleagues walking toward the Khasekhemui enclosure or “fort,” ca 2700 BC. He was the last king of the Second Dynasty.

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Students mapping on the site prior to excavation


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Village children racing with tires.
Emily Henkels
Working on what became HK24B, a ten-meter square on the Egyptian desert, wasn’t easy for this rather inexperienced American college student! As each layer of ancient soil was removed, we were essentially undoing thousands of years of history. I quickly learned that in archaeology, as in life, there are no second chances. In a practical sense, that meant taking notes like mad—you can never be too conscientious while out in the field. The exciting, frightening, and sometimes frustrating responsibility of archaeology really helped me to appreciate the value of experience, patience, and careful work. These are skills I hope to develop in other aspects of my professional life.

While excavating HK24B, we were not “treasure-hunting” (unless you call the eager lookout for brewery “vat residue” treasure-hunting) but, rather, we were attempting to answer questions about the past. When out in the sun and wind, we constantly reminded ourselves of some fundamental questions about the scale and manner of Predynastic Egyptian beer production. I suppose the most profound lesson that I’ve taken away from the field school is not so much about beer-making, but about remembering my purpose in all the work I do, whether professional or personal.

Elena Madaj
Perhaps the most important thing I learned while in Egypt was that I really do want to pursue a career in forensic anthropology and travel the world working on cases. I have also learned a great deal about myself. Small troubles just don’t worry me after spending a month completely out of my “comfort zone.”

I am convinced that learning about another culture is imperative to understanding our world. At first glance, the villagers adjacent to the site do not seem to have much materially, but one learns that they are rich in their own way. They have their families and their homes. They live their lives. We were invited to dinner at two homes during our stay at Hierakonpolis. Although I was not used to homes constructed of mud bricks and such, I recognized these houses as homes. I learned so much through village hospitality and the hearty meals served us. One of my favorite recollections was walking among village children playing with tires and having the time of their lives!

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This page contains a single article from the Illinois International Review posted on May 29, 2007 8:44 AM.

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